Archive for the 'Expatriate Life' Category

T-Minus One Week

Well, I’ve got less than a week left here and time is basically flying by. It’s a bit bittersweet. I’m looking forward to going home, but at the same time, the only thing about my life here that really makes me want to leave at this point is my job. And by that I mean the teaching English part. I love the students, and I’m going to miss the hell out of my coworkers.

So this week I’m doing my last classes, taking pictures of everyone, cleaning up my disgusting apartment, and (eventually) trying to fit my life into two suitcases in preparation for my departure on Tuesday morning. That may be a challenge, as (inevitably) I have accumulated more crap than I had when I came here. Plus, people keep giving me gifts.

It’s a pretty busy week, and when I get home it gets even busier, so I wouldn’t expect updates here for another couple weeks or so (although there might be). Once I’ve been home for a bit, though, there should be some concrete news about music stuff, shows and also the recording of new albums, so stay tuned.

Things I Will (Not) Miss

I now have about two weeks left in China. Here’s a list of some things about my life here (not the country as a whole) I’ll miss, or not.

I will miss…

  • The chilluns. Even though some of them are incredibly obnoxious, they’re cute and can be a lot of fun when they aren’t doing something that makes me want to strangle them. Remarkably, being called a monster by a classroom of six year olds is much more fun than you’d expect.
  • My coworkers. Both foreign and Chinese staff at my branch of my school are pretty awesome, and I’m going to miss them dearly. I’ll especially miss the classes I had training the Chinese staff, and the play-fights between Andy, and, well, all of the girls.
  • Food prices. China is a country that a man like me could grow to love, right up until it killed me. I have virtually nothing to spend my exorbitant salary on every month other than chocolate.
  • Convenient transportation. Cabs and busses go anywhere all the time. Public transportation here, or at least its mass availability, makes the US look like a third world country. I’m probably going to have to buy a car when I get home, too. Fuck.
  • Living on the eighth floor. If there were an elevator, I would be fat.
  • Huang Gang. Special shout out to the finest driver in Harbin. Anyone can get you from point A to point B, but big brother Huang does it all while entertaining his passengers and cursing at other drivers.
  • “Ye Wen Has Something to Say.” All romance-related problems should be solved by severe Chinese women via radio programs.
  • Being a Rich Foreigner Who’s Totally shuai. In America I’ll just be a poor, ugly white guy again.
  • Man-size beer bottles. That bullshit you put your beers in in the States and elsewhere is crap. Double it. Now we’re talking. Also, I will miss the price of these beers (about 60 cents for a bottle that holds 2x the beer of American bottles, or more.)

I will not miss…

  • Teaching ESL. Yup, teaching English kind of sucks.
  • Lack of hot water anywhere other than the shower. This is a feature specific to my apartment, but every time I go somewhere else and wash my hands it feels luxurious.
  • Internet censorship. I miss youtube sometimes.
  • Air pollution. Or this hacking cough I seem to have developed. Related?
  • Dirt everywhere. China generally is a dirty place, but the little courtyard outside my apartment building is the most disgusting place on earth in early spring.
  • Ladybugs that bite you. In America, ladybugs are friendly. Not here. Here they are vicious little bastards.
  • Having to keep in touch with all my friends from America through email or Skype. Hooray for cell phones.

That’s all for now. Expect future posts here to be similarly nostalgic crap until I get home.

Time to Go Home?

With less than a month left in my stay here, I’ve been reflecting a bit on life in China, and about going home. Just how different will things be? I don’t really remember, but I do know that China now feels perfectly normal to me. There’s very little here that surprises me or weirds me out. Life here is just life at this point; the days go by like they would anywhere. I’ve been thinking that means I’m pretty well adjusted to life here, which makes me susceptible to reverse culture shock when I get back home.

The piece de resistance came last night when I was helping a Chinese friend with the English application to a summer intercultural program in Beijing. One of the free response prompts she was asked to answer asked her to discuss a cultural issue that’s very different between the US and China. Being more submersed in (and aware) of the politics because of my other blog, my first thought was to address that, but she wanted purely cultural issues, no politics, and damned if I couldn’t think of anything different. At least for a minute or two. Finally I made up something about the importance of family, but the fact that nothing jumped quickly to mind was kind of disturbing.

It’s not because Chinese culture and American culture are all that similar, it’s just that I’m so used to China (at least this part of it) at this point that whatever’s “different” here is no longer different to me. And if I’m used to what’s here, it stands to reason when I get home and things are different from what’s here, it might require some adjustment.

The Classics

With all this talk of Obama changing America’s international image, I was beginning to forget what everyone outside the States really thinks of us. Thanks to this morning’s cab driver for reminding me:

Cabbie: What country are you from?
Me: America.
Cabbie: You don’t look American.
Me. Really, why not?
Cabbie: You’re not fat enough.
Me: Not all Americans are fat.
Cabbie: You’re not even as fat as me! I’ve seen Americans on TV! They’re all like this, thick arms and legs and big stomachs [gesturing wildly].

Of course, on the way back, I got some commentary on Chinese people’s perception of Chinese people:

Cabbie: [Gesturing to man peeing on the side of the road in broad daylight] Look at that. Disgusting, eh?
Me: Yes.
Cabbie: Chinese society has this problem. This man is not even as good as a dog, what do you say? At least a dog finds a tree or something to go on.
Me: True.
Cabbie: Not even as good as a dog, that guy!

Ah, cabbies.

Never Drive Anywhere Around Chinese New Year

Well, the Spring Festival (i.e. “Chinese New Year”) holiday is fast approaching, and the traffic in this town has gone beserk. The roads are slick with ice, of course, but the number of cabs has gone down since people are going home for new years. The cabs that remain seem uninterested in actually picking people up, which has led to things like this:

Originally, after class today I was scheduled to be driven home by our driver, but I guess he was stuck in traffic or something and couldn’t make it so they told me to take a cab. After spending about 20 minutes trying to get a cab and being completely unsucessful (I even had one guy just drive away when I tried to speak to him) I decided to take the bus home in the hopes that I would have time to get home before I had to turn around and come back.

I got about halfway home by bus before our bus got hit by a car. This happened at extremely slow speed, and as far as I know, no one was hurt, but it also meant the bus was out of comission while the drivers yelled at each other, so many of the passengers (including me) got off in search of greener pastures.

Unfortunately, there was no bus stop near there, so I just started walking in the direction of home. After a while another cab came along that was actually willing to drive me to a place in return for money (imagine that!) and, about an hour and a half after leaving the place where I was teaching (a 15 minute drive from home) I got home.

I’m about to head back out there again for a class tonight. If the driver flakes this time, I’m really screwed, because I don’t know if this bus goes in the opposite direction, and it’s impossible to get a cab between 4 and 5:30 even on regular days (its when they change shifts), let alone days before the biggest national holiday.

Update: We left for the 5:00 class at 4:30, as scheduled. The traffic was so bad that we hadn’t made it to the school (generally about 15 minutes by car) by the time the class ended. I’m OK with getting paid to sit in a car and listen to “Ye Wen has Something to Say*” for an hour or two, but goddamn….

*This is a popular early evening radio show where people with romance problems (often cheating husbands or boyfriends) call a woman named Ye Wen and she yells at them. I can’t always understand it, but sometimes it’s really funny. I’ll probably make a post about it at some point.

The Strangest Experience Ever

Right before my website was blocked here, a very, very strange thing happened to me. I had planned to write about it then, but the blog got blocked, the holidays came, and somehow the story got lost in the shuffle. Those of you who know me personally have heard it already; for the rest of you, well…enjoy. I swear this is all true.

One Sunday morning I got a notification from the woman who writes our schedules. There was no text, just an attachment. The attachment was laid out like the forms we get informing us that we have a new class, but it was all blank, except for the Notes section, which read thusly (I have not edited this at all):

We have the report now and already gave the paper to EAC. He needs to read this report during the meeting ,he needs to wear the suit (formal clothes ) ,he should practice this report before the meeting ,he should divide the report into four small short sections , and during the reading , when he finishes one small short section , let TA translate ,the whole report should read like this .

Needless to say, I was a bit confused. I also didn’t have a copy of the “report” it referred to, a formal suit, or any idea when the hell this was supposed to be happening, so I sent my boss an email. Turned out, “the meeting”—whatever the hell that was—was the next morning. I got no further information as to what this was, or what it had to do with teaching English (which is what my job is).

I was already annoyed because it meant that I’d have to cancel my afternoon Chinese lesson to go hunting for a suit. Then our office manager gave me the “report” I was meant to read at the “meeting”. It read thusly (also not edited at all, it came with the typos):

Honorable Ladies and Gentlemen:
On behalf of the Palestinian Mother Poole of Britain, let me express my sincere greetings to everybody.
China is a great country with long history and brilliant civilization. Far from the beginning of the 20th century, the rapid development of agriculture in China indicated that of China was the leader of the world.
For the carrer of “Biscay”, my three years working in China has got great support and help from all governments and relative regions. The series fertilizers of “Biscay” obtained recognition and welcome from Chinese farmers.
I have joined in the “Biscay” conferences many times. But today, except for pleasure, I a, also very astonished that Biscay could develop so fast from south to the northeast China, and got great effect. Until now, Biscay has covered more than 20 prvinces of China. It is inseperable to the hardworking of the Chinese staff.
British Mother of the Palestinian Poole is an organic enterprises of research, technology promotion and international trade. The vice president of the company has served in the International Food and Agriculture Organization, known as the “Father of Fertilizer” in Britain. We have close cooperative relations with agricultural research and the most advanced technologies. “Biscay” exports to more than 100 countries and regions in the world. It provides security for the agricultural development and people’s physical and mental health.
In 2009, the headquarter plans to provide 5,000 tons core raw materials to China to assure enough source of manure, and thereupon the maximize profits for dealers and farmers.
I’m sure “Biscay” will bring constructive and profound impact to Chinese agriculture !In conclusion, I wish the meeting a complete success and merry Christmas.

Needless to say, I became a bit concerned at this point. Aside from the obvious spelling and grammar errors in the “report” I was being asked to give, it was becoming increasingly clear that this didn’t have a damn thing to do with English teaching. At best, I suspected I was being brought in to represent some British company solely because having a white person makes your business look better; at worst, it seemed perhaps I was being asked to impersonate a poop vendor.

The next morning I met up with my “translator” (one of the Chinese TAs from our school) and we got into a sketchy van that drove us to a hotel lobby in the middle of nowhere. On the ride, the TA filled me in a bit on what was happening. I was not “representing” a British company, I was in fact impersonating an extremely high level executive. This executive had gone home for the holidays, but apparently a Chinese company he worked with wanted him to make a token appearance at this meeting with yet another company, probably to impress them.

That’s where I come in. With my goatee, roguish good looks and tie (I wasn’t able to find a suit, or even a sport coat in time), I didn’t exactly look the part, but apparently everyone was hoping that nobody would notice this. This made me more than a little nervous. Then my “translator” asked me if I could answer “professional questions.” I looked at her like she was crazy and she said OK, she would try to deflect them. Oh, good. This was going to go great.

We got there and were met by a whole bunch of people who hustled us over to the room where the meeting was taking place. My “translator” subtly reminded me that I was the boss of everyone (as far as they knew), so I should try to act the part. Whatever that means.

The room, as it turned out, was set up sort of like a press conference. There was a table in the front with microphones and eight or nine seats. Places for important people like the Chinese company executives, local agriculture experts and even the provincial agriculture minister. And, of course, me. Opposite the table were probably two hundred seats full of people. Several different people were filming the meeting and more were taking photos; it was quite clear the press was there.

I sat down at my place and spent a while trying to figure out what the hell my shiny nametag, which read 查理斯, meant before I realized it was the Chinese approximation of Charles, my name. So, I’m supposed to be impersonating some British excrement merchant using my own name? I began to suspect that our ruse might not fool anyone.

Not that I was really trying to help pull it off. I was pretty annoyed with the whole situation, so when called on to give my speech (only after a length and very polite, deferential introduction in Chinese) I gave it verbatim, bad grammar and all. Anyone in the room who spoke English would certainly be puzzled, but I suspect I was the only one who understood it or was even listening, since my “translator” was reading the Chinese version of the speech.

After I spoke, we sat at the table, pretending to listen to speech after speech about how great “Biscay” is, all in Chinese. Most of these speeches were prefaced with kind words and thanks directed at “Mr. Charles”, generally in Chinese, but occasionally even in halting English. I’d nod to them and go back to sleeping with my eyes open.


The aforementioned “Biscay”; this is their Chinese name.

About an hour into the process, apparently the people who hired me began to be concerned that the ruse might not look as good as they’d originally hoped. Via the “translator”, they asked me to lean over and talk to the guy next to me at the table. That way, people watching us would think we knew each other (presumably from our previous business dealings?). The guy next to me was an agriculture expert from a local university, but he seemed much less rabidly enthusiastic than the others. In fact, he looked about as bored as I was. I didn’t know if he spoke English, so I leaned over and told him in Chinese that they had asked me to pretend I was talking with him. He seemed unfazed by this.

Right before it was about to end, they remembered they were supposed to give me water. I wasn’t thirsty, but I was bored, so I opened it and promptly spilled some on my tie, creating a gigantic dark spot.

Then the meeting broke for lunch. We wanted to jet quickly before anyone got a chance to ask me any questions or figure out what was up, but everyone wanted to take photos with me. Some of them wanted to talk business, too, but I pretended I didn’t understand what they were saying and the “translator” deflected their requests for business cards and the like. Anyway, somewhere, there are photos of me shaking hands with some of the highest-level movers and shakers in Heilongjiang’s agricultural field!

And that’s it. We fought through the photos and got out clean, if somewhat weirded out by the whole process. I’m still pretty uncomfortable with it on principle, and I still don’t know why they chose me to go (rather than, say the old British man who loves acting and also works on staff here. No seriously, there actually is a guy like that.). It does make for one hell of a story, though…

Being a Person

As I have previously explained, one of the things that really bothers me about China is the attitude and assumptions most people have about foreigners. It isn’t everybody, though, and today I had one of those moments that reminds me why I shouldn’t let that attitude get to me when it does pop up.

I was at the grocery store stocking up on the things I eat (read: grape juice, peanut butter, chocolate) and, as usual, it was full of old Chinese people. I fought my way through the shuffling geriatric masses to the juice section and reached over a woman who looked about four hundred years old to grab a glass container of Welch’s. She was staring at the same section, pondering what to buy, and when she saw me grab my choice so quickly, she was likely shocked by my manly decisiveness.

She turned around to ask me whether it tasted good, and to her credit, she didn’t skip a beat when she saw I was a foreigner. Her eyes didn’t bug out, she didn’t run away, she didn’t even hesitate to speak Chinese, just asked me anyway just as though I was anyone else.

I probably looked a bit shocked because I’m not used to people doing that, especially not old people who are generally even less used to the idea that foreigners live in China and speak Chinese than younger folks.

Anyway, I told her the juice was good, very good, and then went on my way. I hope she bought it, and I hope she likes it because it’s pretty expensive (a full afternoon on the toilet early in my experience here convinced me it’s worth it to buy the expensive stuff because it tastes good and isn’t poison).

For her it was probably an insignificant moment, but it made me feel pretty good to be honest. I know I’m more sensitive to this stuff than most foreigners in China (and some people like to be singled out anyway), but I really enjoyed being addressed as though I were any other part of the crowd, and not some crazy foreigner.

…”I really enjoyed being addressed as though I were any other part of the crowd”…Christ, this place is turning me into a Chinese person!

Christmas in China

Note: Since the site remains blocked anyway, I have decided to repost the material I suspect attracted the attention of the censors. If you’re curious, you’ll find it a few posts down. It’s called Charter 08.

So, this Christmas was my first Christmas in China, and my first Christmas away from family and friends. It was also the first Christmas I’ve ever worked on (obviously), and I can’t say that it was much fun, but there were some interesting points:

1) In China, everyone gives/eats apples on Christmas eve. This is because the word apple (苹果 pingguo) in Chinese partially sounds like the word peace (平安 ping’an) and Christmas Eve in China is called “Evening of Peace” (平安夜). Many of my students thought this was a tradition in America, too, although after I told them to think about that for a second they realized it was pretty unlikely. Anyway, I have a lot of apples now, which doesn’t make me think of Christmas at all, but since I’m a teacher and America does have the tradition of students giving teachers apples, I’ll take what I can get.

2) Aside from apples, a couple of my students also gave me cards, including a pop-up one.

3) My Christmas consisted of early morning college classes, followed by Skype with a friend, followed by an evening work-mandated Christmas show (the content of which mostly had nothing to do with Christmas), followed by an equally-mandated dinner with coworkers (Christmas gift from the school: a gigantic, fancy beer opener. Because foreigners all love beer!), and then Skype with the family late that night. It was a pretty exhausting day. Luckily I didn’t have to work until evening the next day.

For those who are curious, most Chinese people don’t celebrate Christmas, although some young people do exchange gifts and celebrate by going to internet bars and playing games all night. (This seems to happen on a lot of non-Chinese holidays). Everyone is aware of it, though, and there are trees and decorations and stuff around everywhere just like there are in the West, although less so.

Harbin, being a wintry place, has lots of cool light displays that went up before Christmas although I think they have nothing to do with Christmas at all. There are streets lined with christmas light-adorned trees and even the gigantic, rather ugly snowflake statue at the center of Hongbo Square has been spiced up with some colored lights and highlighting. I’ll try to get some video of it the next time I’m out. My guess is it will be around for a while, as there are a plethora of holidays coming up here: New Years, then the Harbin Snow and Ice Festival begins on the 5th, and then of course there is the Spring Festival (Chinese New Year) which begins in late January.

Updates

Well, it looks like my blog may be blocked in China for the long haul. I’m going to keep the offending article off the site for another week or two just to be sure, but nothing seems to be changing. For those of you who missed it and are interested in what (I think) would cause the Chinese government to block my website, if you were to google the word “charter” followed by the numbers zero and eight, you might well find the answer. Anyway, at least my blog is in good company; the New York Times website was recently blocked in China, too.

Additionally, I just got my first haircut in China. I had been dreading this and putting it off because I have seen other foreigners get brutalized by Chinese barbers–foreigners with better Chinese than mine–but I must have chosen the right place or something.

I just went to the place that’s on my street, I pass it every day when I walk to work. It’s a very small shop, and there was just one guy in there. He was cutting a couple other people’s hair so I sat in a chair for about 40 minutes watching some French movie (Gerard Depardieu was in it, because he is in all French movies–I believe it’s actually a law there) dubbed into Chinese. It was the second half, so I have no idea what the setup was, but apparently he’s very good at stealing cars?

Anyway, eventually it came to me, and after washing my hair for me (it’s standard practice in China for barbers to wash your hair before and after the haircut) he began to cut it. My instructions: “For god’s sake, don’t make it too short! Just shorten it a little bit.” He seemed cool with this, and throughout the process kept asking me if I wanted specific spots shorter. This ended up pretty well. It took a while, but it cost me 10 RMB (slightly over $1 US) and by all accounts actually looks good. My Chinese coworkers–who were all aware of my trepidation–have reviewed it well, and my friend Alice insists it makes me look younger. This is a good thing, I think.

Anyway, I do have an amazing story to tell, so check back in a few days when I’ve had time to do it justice by writing out something good. Also, MERRY CHRISTMAS.

Blocked in China

Hey all. My domain seems to be blocked in China at the moment–I’m accessing this site via a proxy–so expect updates to slow down a bit until this gets straightened out and/or I figure out alternative posting methods.

Thanks,
-SZ

UPDATE: Trying a little experiment here. I have removed some “controversial” content from the site, we’ll see if they life the block or not…(if it is even blocked China-wide, can anyone outside Harbin confirm?)

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